We recently found ourselves with a 12-hour layover in Nairobi, Kenya. Twelve hours gave us enough time to leave the airport. As Canadians, we were required to apply for an entry visa to be able to leave the airport. As of January 1, 2024, travellers to Kenya no longer need to obtain a visa, but applying for a Kenya Electronic Travel Authorisation is mandatory. Entering Kenya also requires proof of Yellow Fever Vaccination (administered at least 10 days before travel). We live in a rural community in northern Ontario and had difficulty finding a clinic to get our vaccinations, as they are typically not done at regular pharmacies. We had to go to a travel clinic in Mississauga. It cost us $330 CAD each.
I arranged for a private driver (through Viator) to take us around Nairobi. I would highly recommend this option for a layover. Public transportation and traffic can be hectic in the city center. For this reason, we also planned most of our activities on the outskirts of town. Here is a short list and some tips on what we did with our time.
- Visit the Giraffe Centre – not too far from the airport is the Giraffe Centre, a haven where majestic giraffes roam freely. The Giraffe Centre shares its property with the famous Giraffe Manor. You can only visit the manor if you have a reservation to stay overnight. The manor is reserved for guests. We booked our tickets online for the Giraffe Centre, and although you book a specific time, we could enter earlier than our ticket time. We were delighted to find ourselves feeding and observing these graceful creatures up close. The experience is not only affordable but also incredibly rewarding, making it a must-visit attraction in Nairobi.
- Sheldrick Wildlife Trust – Our next stop took us to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, a sanctuary dedicated to the rehabilitation of orphaned baby elephants and rhinos. This needs to be booked in advance. Although, we were fortunate to secure a spot upon arrival. The visits are daily from 11:00-12:00 noon. Witnessing the playful antics of baby elephants during their midday mud bath was a heartwarming experience. The Keepers also tell the heart wrenching stories of the animals and how they became orphans and their journey to recovery.
- Carnivore Restaurant – Looking for a unique dining experience? Check out Carnivore. We were seated on the picturesque outdoor patio. To start, you are served soup and given a large tray of salads, sauces, and a little flag (we will get to the flag shortly). You get a sizzling cast iron plate, which keeps everything hot. Meats are roasting on traditional Maasai swords over a charcoal pit. The carvers bring the swords around, allowing you to try all the different meats—everything from chicken, lamb, ostrich, and even crocodile. The carvers will keep bringing meat to your table as long as the little flag is raised. Once you are done, you lower the flag to ‘surrender.’ This was a culinary adventure like no other.
- Bomas of Kenya – To immerse yourself in the rich Kenyan culture, you can visit the Bomas of Kenya. The daily shows consist of over 50 dances from different ethnic communities. With live percussion, string, and wind instruments, the performance showcases diverse, authentic, and energetic dancing. You are invited to dance but don’t have to if you are not up for it. Of course, I got up and danced. After the performance, a guide took us around the grounds with many cultural homesteads, and explained who lived in them and from which regions. We were also able to go inside the buildings.
As the day came to a close, savouring cold Tusker beers and browsing local shops for souvenir, we relished every moment of our layover experience. With memories to cherish and stories to share we are grateful for the opportunity to embark on a journey of discovery in just 12 short hours. Until next time, Kenya!
